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Старый 14.11.2013, 15:30 Автор темы   1
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По умолчанию ReviewTheLight: Nitecore SRT3 Defender

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Nitecore has long been on the cutting edge of flashlight technology, and they're not slacking off now. As one of the first to adopt magnetic control ring technology, they're exploring it's capabilities with their new SRT series. The SRT series lights use the control ring not only for infinite variability, but for various utility modes and control of multi-color emitters. This review covers the smallest of the SRT's, the SRT3 Defender, powered by a single 16340 or 14500 sized battery, utilizing a Cree XM-L2 and a single small red/blue emitter.


Thanks to Nitecore for providing the SRT3 for review.

[FONT=verdana]
I’ll be reviewing the SRT3 in two sections: first, I’ll discuss the light objectively (the facts about the light itself), then I’ll discuss the light subjectively (my impressions about the light's performance when used for specific applications). If you have any other specific applications you'd like the light tested for, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Video Review

Below is a video review of the SRT3. Due to my old image hosting site closing down, I've got new restrictions on image uploads and have replaced the "Construction" section of my reviews with a more detailed video review.

Прямая ссылка на видео YouTube

This video is available in 1080p HD, but defaults to a lower quality. To select the playback quality click the settings button (looks like a gear) after you've started the video.


Objective

Manufacturer's Specifications

Price: 90 USD





Dimensions








User Interface

The interface of the SRT3 has many options, but is incredibly intuitive. To turn the light on/off, you use the tail switch at the rear (half-press for momentary on or full press for constant on), and to control the output you use the control ring.

With the light pointing away from you, turning the ring all the way to the left will start you in the Beacon mode, steady quick bright flash at low frequency. Turning right, you next get the SOS mode, then a Red/Blue Strobe, then Blue, then Red, then the Minimum White output, then a smooth Infinitely Variable transition up to the Maximum White output, then a high-frequency Strobe. Each of these positions has a detent in the control ring so it feels like a soft "click" into position, providing tactile feedback and prevent the ring from changing position in you pocket. The exception is the Infinitely Variable section, which has a detent on either end for the Min and Max output, but is smooth in between.


Action Shots

You can click on any of these shots to see them full size.

Light in Hand (without and with AA extender)


White Wall (Low, Medium, High, Blue, Red)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/20"

(Blue and Red at 2")

BeamSlice


MugShot


Indoor Shots (Low, Medium, High, Blue, Red)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 1"

(Blue and Red at 10")

Outdoor Shots (
Low, Medium, High, Blue, Red)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 2.5"


Long-Range Shots (
High)
ISO 100, f/3.3, 5"



Performance

Submersion: I submersed the SRT3 under a foot of water for an hour, using the switch and control ring during that time, and found no evidence of water damaging or entering the light.

Heat: The SRT3 doesn't display any significant heat buildup.

PWM:

Drop: I dropped the SRT3 on various surfaces (carpet, grass, packed dirt, hard wood) and it did not suffer any cosmetic or functional damage.

Reverse Polarity Protection: The SRT3 uses mechanical reverse polarity protection to prevent the negative terminal of a battery from making electrical connection with the head.

Over-Discharge Protection: The SRT3 does turn itself off before over-discharging a lion, but as always, I recommend recharging the battery before this is necessary. The output of the SRT3 drops slightly before it's about to turn off, so that's your cue.


Spectral Analysis




All light that we see as white is actually made up of several different colors put together. The relative intensities of the different colors in the mix are what determine the tint of the white we see. For example, cool white LED's have a lot of blue, and warm white LED's have more red or yellow. This measurement was done on a home made spectrometer. The plot below the picture is corrected for the spectral sensitivity of the human eye. Note: the peak in the 900nm region doesn't really exist, it's a piece of the second-order spectrum that's showing up here because of the high intensity of the light source.

Output and Runtime


ANSI FL-1 runtime ratings are the time it takes for a light to fall to 10% of it's original output (counting from 30 seconds after turning the light on).

The vertical axis of the graphs below represents a relative brightness measurement using a home made light box. The horizontal axis is time in hours:minutes:seconds. Runtimes are stated in hours:minutes:seconds. These graphs may be truncated to show detail.

Mode Comparison


Max




Medium




Throwing Distance

ANSI FL-1 standard for stating a light's throwing distance is the distance at which the peak beam intensity (usually at the center of the beam) is 0.25 lux. I calculate throwing distance and candela (lux at 1 meter) by measuring peak beam intensity at five different distances and using the formula lux*distance^2=constant.


Peak Beam Intensity: 4532cd
Throw Distance: 135

(As a side note, Nitecore's claims are only 32cd off from what I measured, which is an impressive 0.7% error :thumbsup: )

Subjective Review

Quick break down:

+

-


Long Term Impressions
I'll fill this part in after carrying the light for a while. If nothing get's added here, either I find nothing else worth noting about the light, or I end up not using it often.
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