[selfbuilt]

Warning: pic heavy, as usual. :whistle:




The G25C2 is a new, top-of-the-line, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR flashlight from Eagletac. I've received enough requests to review this light that I have finally decided to purchase one. In this review, I will be examining the Neutral White XM-L version

Note the Eagletac specs on the website are not consistent as to the output bin on this version (in some places the Neutral White version is listed as a T5, in others a T6). I suspect it is properly a T5.

Manufacturer Specs (consolidated from multiple pages on the Eagletac website):

• LED: Cree XM-L (Cool White U2 or Neutral White T5 available)
• OTF Lumens for Cree XM-L U2 Cool White: 640/267/49/2 lumens
• OTF Lumens for Cree XM-L T5 Neutral White: 551/229/43/2 lumens
• Runtime: 1.1/3.5/20/200 hors
• Note: Runtime measurement is taken with energy saving feature (on by default) and with two CR123A. G25C2 reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds at turbo mode. User can disable or enable this energy saving feature.
• Powered by 2xCR123A, 2xRCR123A, or 1x18650 li-ion.
• With 3 cell body extender: 3xCR123A, or 3xRCR123A li-ion
• With 4 cell body extender: 4xCR123A, or 2x18650 li-ion4
• With 3x18650 extender: 3x18650 li-ion
• Voltage range: 2.7V - 12.6V
• Beam Intensity (U2 version): 15,100 lux
• Beam Distance (U2 version): 268 yards
• Two groups of basic output modes, Tactical (100% / 10% / Strobe / Strobe) and Regular (100% / 35% / 6% / 0.3%) – Tactical is factory default, but user selectable
• Brightness level selected by loosening/tightening head/bezel
• Four levels brightness and five hidden auxillary modes (Disorienting Strobe, Hi-Flash, SOS, Beacon, Lo-Flash)
• Titanium coated stainless steel bezel (removable)
• SCHOTT waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment, anti-reflective (AR) coating on both sides
• HAIII hard anodization aerospace aluminum (black)
• Titanium coated Stainless steel pocket clip
• Very light orange peel aluminum reflector
• IPX-8 waterproof
• Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ self-retention device and flip
• Mil-Spec Paracord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip
• Included Accessories: Spare O-rings, GITD (Glow in the dark) switch boot , User manual, Tail-stand rubber boot, Soft cigar holding grip, Cigar grip cover ring, Lanyard ring attachment ring
• Optional kit: Durable aluminum flip-over filter assembly, Diffuser, yellow, red, blue, and green optical grade anti-reflective coated add-on lens, 3 cells extension body tube for three CR123A/RCR123A, 4 cells extension body tube for four CR123A or two 18650 li-ion
• Dimensions: Head Diameter 1.55 inches (39.5 mm), Body Diameter 1.0 inches (25 mm), Length: 5.9 inches (150 mm), Weight excluding battery: 4.8 ounces (138 grams)
• MSRP: ~$110 (~$150 with accessory kit)

I bought the light with the full accessory kit. As you can see, the light came with a soft rubber grip ring and metal pocket clip installed (I installed the rubber tailstanding cap). Also included was a belt holster with metal button clasp, wrist lanyard, extra o-rings, GITD switch boot cover, cigar grip cover ring, lanyard attachment ring, manual, and warranty card.

As part of the accessory kit, I got the aluminum flip-top screw-on bezel with diffuser, yellow, red, blue, and green coated lenses, 3 cell extension body tube, 4 cell extension body tube, and internal plastic battery sleeves to prevent rattle.



From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Eagletac G25C2, T20C2-II; Foursevens X7; Klarus XT-11; Thrunite TN11; Lumintop TD-15X.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

Eagletac G25C2 (stock): Weight 144.3g, Length: 181mm, Width (bezel): 39.6mm
Eagletac G25C2 (with diffuser/tailstand cap): Weight 160.2g, Length: 150.6mm, Width (widest, at bezel diffuser hinge): 46.2mm
Eagletac D25LC2: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
Eagletac T20C2-II: Weight 114.7g, Length 145.7mm, Width (bezel): 33.5mm
Foursevens X7: Weight 146.9g, Length: 151.5mm, Width (bezel): 38.7mm
Lumintop TD-15X: Weight 150.3g, Length 147.3mm, Width (bezel): 37.8mm
Thrunite TN11: Weight: 176.8g, Length: 154.0mm, Width (bezel): 41.0mm






The G25C2 build appears to be an update from the earlier T20C2-II, with a larger head and revised styling. Anodizing remains a glossy black (HA = type III). All labels are bright and clear (sharp against the black background).

Knurling is present in several bands over body/tail/head, and is of reasonable aggressiveness. I would say grip has definitely increased from the earlier model Eagletac T-series lights.

Screw threading is traditional-cut (and fairly fine) in the tail region, anodized for lock-out. Screw threads are square-cut (and thick) in the head region. See the pics above and UI discussion below for more details on the contact surfaces. You will need to use cells that have at least some sort of raised protrusion on the positive contact surface (i.e., a small or large button top).

The bundled cigar grip ring is made of rubber, with an extra thin rubber band cover included (in case you want to remove the ring but keep the area covered).

The titanium-coated stainless steel pocket clip is held in place by a metal screw cover. The clip is removable, and the cover hides the attachment point.

With the tailstanding rubber cover installed (similar to the T20C2-II), the light can tailstand. Switch is a forward clicky switch with traditional feel.

There is also a two-piece plastic lanyard attachment ring bundled with the light (for use at the tailcap instead of the tailstanding cover).



Note: this review is of the Neutral White XM-L option.

Reflector is nearly smooth - I would consider it a very, very light orange-peel (VLOP) reflector. :rolleyes:

One of the key features of the optional accessory kit is the replacement bezel with flip-top diffuser/filter cover.



The stock head has a scalloped titanium-coated stainless steel bezel ring, replaceable with the screw-on diffuser/filter assembly.










The flip-top diffuser is very high quality, made of aluminum. :thumbsup: Hinge mechanism is good, and the whole unit has a solid feel. There is a metal retaining ring holding the glass lens in place (swappable between the frosted diffuser shown above and four colored filters). The colored filters are all high quality – thick, with mirrored finish and AR coatings (i.e., these are actual proper optical grade filters, not just colored pieces of plastic). :twothumbs

Here is how the head compares to the T20C2-II, with and without diffuser covers (plastic screw on diffuser for the T20C2-II):




User Interface

Turn the light on/off by the tailcap forward clicky switch (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

There are four output levels controlled by simply loosening or tightening the head (i.e., the four levels are accessed in sequence from head fully tight). There are two possible groups of output modes available - Tactical (100% > 10% > Strobe > Strobe, in sequence) and Regular (100% > 35% > 6% > 0.3%, in sequence). Tactical is the factory default, but you can switch between the two groups by loosening the head to the second level and rapidly clicking the switch off/on 20 times in a row.

Note that unlike the Foursevens X7 (which also uses a four-level control in the head), the physical turning distance between the levels is fairly small on the G25C2 (and not consistent). As soon as you loosen past fully tight, you drop down to the second level. You drop down again to the third level after a ~45 degree angle turn, and similarly again for the fourth level after another ~45. This means that after ~100 degree turn from tight, the light is in the lowest mode. It remains in this mode until you complete almost a full turn from fully tight (at which point the light shuts off).

It is important that you keep all the contact surfaces in the head and the top of the battery tube clean. Eagletac recommends regular use of red Deoxit contact cleaner, and limiting silicone lube to the o-rings only (i.e., not to the threads). I can confirm that mode switching can become erratic if the threads dirty-up (especially for moving in/out of the highest levels, and accessing the auxiliary modes).

To access the hidden auxiliary modes, do a quick loosen-tighten twist of the head (from first level tight to third or fourth level and back again). Repeat this twist to advance through the modes. Mode sequence is: Disorientating Strobe > Hi-Flash > SOS > Beacon > Lo-Flash, in repeating sequence. Turn off the light or loosen the head to quit the hidden modes. I will describe these modes in more detail below.

There is an "energy saving feature" (on by default) when the light reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds in Turbo. To toggle this feature off/on, loosen the head to the fourth level and the click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

To help show all of this better, please see my video overview:

Прямая ссылка на видео YouTube

Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen.

PWM/Strobe

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the lights are current-controlled.

Strobe mode:


The auxiliary strobe mode is an alternating or "oscillating" strobe, switching between 6.3Hz and 15.2Hz roughly every 2 secs. Definitely disorienting. :rolleyes:

Hi-Flash mode:



Hi-Flash is basically a full power slow strobe/beacon mode. Frequency was a reasonable 1.6 Hz in my testing. Note that the deflection spikes you see above are just the on and off signals of the pulse (i.e., it spends roughly half the time on, half the time off, with each pulse).

SOS mode:


SOS mode is relatively slow, but consistent.

Beacon mode:

Beacon is a very quick full output flash, approximately once every ~21 secs (i.e., a very slow beacon)

Lo-Flash:

Lo-Flash is a lower output, slower frequency strobe/beacon than Hi-Flash. I detected 10 flashes in a ~21 sec period (i.e. just under 0.5 Hz).

Beamshots:

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences (i.e., my G25C2 Neutral White won't look any different from the others, but it is a lot warmer in real life).

Note that the flip-top diffuser cover assembly is installed for all G25C2 shots.













Use of the screw-on flip-top diffuser narrows the spillbeam somewhat, compared to the lower profile crenelated bezel ring. Also, you can slightly see the impact of the hinge on the periphery, when the diffuser is flipped up.

Here are some beamshots with the diffuser in place:






As useful as the above shots are, I know people like to have a better idea of the beam angle with the diffuser. So for that, I have turned to my famed "integrating carpet." :rolleyes:




Testing Method:

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

Throw/Output Summary Chart:

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreview... for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.







Given the overall output of my G25C2, I am presuming the Neutral White is a T5 output bin. Eagletac reports 640 ANSI FL-1 lumens for the Cool White U2 version, and 551 lumens for the Neutral White T5. That's not too far off in my estimation of my sample but I am not sure if the Eagletac specs are based on actual IS measurements, or simply estimated OTF lumens. I notice for example that they also provide higher theoretical max "emitter lumens", and the "ANSI FL-1" numbers are all exactly 17% less. :whistle:

Note that the Eagletac center beam distance and intensity measures do seem dairly accurate, given theirs are based on a U2 bin. Note also that my standard lux meter is known to under-report compared to most others.

FYI, I have just received my NIST-certified, calibrated Extech lightmeter, and it reports 14,900 lux@1m (converted back from 10m) for my G25C2 Neutral White. I would therefore expect the U2 to throw even better. I will be updating all my tables above shortly, once I get around to re-testing all the lights with the new meter. :sweat:

Output/Runtime Graphs:








Output/runtime performance was good for my G25C2 Neutral white sample, considering it appears to be a T5 output bin. Output/runtime performance was typically quite similar to some of my early XM-L Cool white lights (presumed T6 output bin, but some many be U2s).

I left the default "energy saving" feature turned on for the Turbo mode, and the light stepped down by ~100 estimated lumens after 3 mins runtime (i.e., a ~20% drop, as claimed)

Note that Eagletac OTF runtimes are based CR123A (in the U2 version), but my results suggest they are something of an underestimate (at least for the Neutral T5)

UPDATE AUGUST 4, 2012: Here is what the Turbo mode runtime looks like without the "energy saving" feature:



Potential Issues

Flat-top cells may not work in the light, due to the physical switching mechanism in the head. I recommend you stick with button-top cells (small and large button top both worked fine in my testing).

There have been reports of very long cells not making proper contact for the Turbo mode (i.e., head won't fully tighten down). I also found one of my older Eagletac 2400mAh cells seemed slightly dented around the button top area, after a period of use in this light.

You need to keep all contact surfaces in the head scrupulously clean, or you may experience mode switching problems (especially between first and second levels, also required for auxiliary modes). The limited range between first/second modes makes switching very susceptible to any contact surface issues.

Unlike the T20C2-II series, the LED assembly/reflector/pill is not a user-replaceable module. This means you will not be able to update your G25C2 with new modules in the future. But it may mean better heat transfer in the G25C2.

The light is bit longer than most 1x18650 lights, especially with the flip-top diffuser installed.

Preliminary Observations

The G25C2 is the much-anticipated update to the high-end of Eagletac's offerings. The popular T20C2-II has been around for awhile, and features a range of customizable options, with a lot of bundled extras. But it does have a few limitations – most notably a limited number of modes, some quirks in the interface, and the need to switch between a separate plastic screw-on diffuser or bezel ring.

Personally, I like a light with a good diffuser option. I use diffused lights a lot - especially for walking the dog at night. With a traditional beam, I tend to find myself distracted and tracking the hotspot (a bit too much of the "follow-the-bouncing-ball" effect :rolleyes. With a good diffuser, I can pay proper attention to what my dog is doing, and what is in the local environment. But when you hear a sudden sound in the bushes or off in the distance, the screwed-on diffuser cover is a handicap to seeing what is going on. As such, while I may like a good diffuser, I also like having the option of decent throw.

The G25C2 - with the optional aluminum flip-top diffuser bezel from the kit - thus seems to offer the best of both worlds. You get greater output and throw than the earlier T20C2-II (thanks in part to the larger head on the G25C2), and you have the option to switch between throw and flood with the flick of a finger.

In my handling, I would say the flip-top diffuser is the most solid and professional looking diffuser cover I've seen to date. :thumbsup: With the matching anodized aluminum bezel, it looks like it belong on the light. The mechanism works well with appropriate stiffness (i.e. the cover stays open or closed as you set it). The ability to switch in other optical colored filters is a nice touch too. But note that the overall spillbeam width is a slightly narrower with the unit in position on the bezel.

IMO, the G25C2 interface is an improvement over the T20C2-II as well. You can configure it (using the Regular group mode) to have all four constant outputs available by a simple loosening of the head. :thumbsup: This is similar to the Foursevens G5/X7, although the precise ranges of motion are a little different. I think this sort of regular interface is simpler and more intuitive for most to remember. The "hidden" blinky modes are all still there if you want them (and Eagletac provides more options than most in this regard). In fact, the interface is more configurable than most lights, with the ability to turn on/off features like the automatic step-down from Turbo, or access to Strobe from off, etc.

Performance-wise, output/runtime efficiency is very good, as you would expect for a current-controlled light. Note that my sample is the lower T5 output bin Neutral White version (also available in Cool White U2 bin version). For many here, the slight drop in max output is a small price to pay for the more pleasing neutral tint outdoors – but the cool white U2-bin option is there for those who want maximum output.

I also like the build updates – it's true the G25C2 is a larger light than the T20C2-II, but it offers greater throw and output in stock form. Knurling is better on the G25C2, and the range of carry options is appreciated. That said, the plastic lanyard ring can be a bit fussy, and the light is a bit of a tight fit in the included belt pouch with the tailstanding cover on. But these are minor quibbles - most lights don't give you as many options to complain about. :laughing:

This is one light where you will want to stay on top of your regular care and maintenance schedule. The number of distinct contact surfaces in the head (required for proper mode switching or program setting) means the light is particularly sensitive to anything that disturbs contact (i.e., do not lube the screw threads in the head – only the o-ring). Also, keep in mind that the G25C2 doesn't use user-upgradeable modules like the T20C2-II does.

At the end of the day, the G25C2 is useful upgrade to me, given my personal preferences in a general-purpose light. Please check out all the detailed specs and performance to see if it is a match for your needs. :wave:

Edit: I don't have any knowledge of Eagletac's plans for the T20C2-II. That series may continue for some time. It is very modular and designed to be easily upgradeable.

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G25C2 was purchased from a local dealer for this review.